Hiker's Guide to the Speckled Region
The Speckled region of the White Mountains is one that I had almost zero experience exploring prior to starting my timed attempt to hike all of the trails in the guidebook. The region intimidated me to a degree and I was nervous to begin working through the trails because they felt wilder and more remote than most of the other trails in the WMNF. After completing this region, it is now one of my favorites, but more on that later. According to the White Mountain Guidebook, 30st edition, “this section covers the mountains and trails in the region east of Evans Notch and the valleys of Evans Brook and the Cold River” (p. 473).
In total, it took me ten individual days of hiking to complete the 76.4 miles of trail in this section. My total elevation gain and total miles to complete this section of the guidebook were: 118.75 miles and 31,870’ of elevation. My original plan was to complete all of the trails in 10 hikes and I ended up completing them all exactly as I had originally planned. This region is pretty straightforward in terms of the route planning which was a welcome relief after trying to make some semblance of order out of the chaos that is the trails in some of the other regions of the White Mountains.
Easiest/Hardest Days
The most difficult day that I had in this region was hands down the day that I took on 16 miles and over 4600’ of elevation gain. The trails themselves weren’t wildly difficult, but having to ascend the same mountain twice and in brutal heat left me feeling wiped out and ready to call it quits before finishing off the day. The trails that I completed were: Bickford Brook Trail, Blueberry Ridge Trail, Bickford Slides Loop, Blueberry Mountain Loop, White Cairn Trail, Shell Pond Loop Trail, Shell Pond Trail, Stone House Trail, Rattlesnake Flume, and Rattlesnake Pool.
The easiest day in this section was when I completed the out and back on Haystack Notch Trail which is essentially just a long walk in the woods. I’m not entirely sure what the purpose of this trail is, other than perhaps to connect Morrill Rd and 113, but it was a pleasant hike. The trail is pretty indistinguishable in spots because of how little traffic it gets but overall I found this to be the easiest day in this region.
Navigation/Trail Conditions
Some of the most difficult navigation in this region for me was on Great Brook Trail. I did this trail two separate times, both at the height of fall, so the footpath was really hard to find with all of the fallen leaves. I found myself wondering where the trail went and there were not very many blazes so I would recommend using some care when hiking this trail. Furthermore, Haystack Notch Trail is a bit hard to distinguish as well due to a lack of traffic. Located within the Speckled Wilderness, there are no blazes so use caution when hiking this trail if you’re not experienced or comfortable with backcountry navigation.
Places of Note
The most stunning section in this region was the Blueberry Mountain region. I have already revisited Rattlesnake Pool again and am looking forward to re-hiking the trails coming down Blueberry Mountain, albeit not all in one day like last time. I’m also looking forward to re-hiking Red Rock Trail and Great Brook Trail, both of which I wholeheartedly enjoyed seeing the first time around in full blown fall (perhaps next time I’ll hike them in summer).
Hidden Gems in the Speckled Region
Caribou Mountain
Caribou Mountain has grown in popularity in recent years but we still like to think of it as a hidden gem. This summit is partly wooded with patches of rock peaking through making it the perfect place to stop and take a break after spending a few hours meandering through the woods to the top. Whether you decide to hike this peak from the west or the east the trail is gradual with just the right amount of climbing to get your heart pumping a bit.
Great Brook Trail
Great Brook is a wonderful trail tucked right in the middle of the Speckled WIlderness and while this trail can be hiked as an out and back by itself, we recommend doing it as a loop with Miles Notch and Red Rock Trail for the ultimate in backwoods experiences. None of these trails are heavily trafficked and you’ll be hard pressed to find a section of The Whites that is less busy on any of the popular holiday weekends.
Mine Loop Trail
Mine Loop is located on the side of Lord Hill. What we love about this small loop is that it takes you right through a mineral mine. Although you won’t be delving underground through tunnels, you will find it hard to not stop and explore the remnants strewn about on the ground and perhaps grab a stone or two as a souvenir. According to the WMNF website, over 50 different minerals have been found in this open depression.
Deer Hill Spring
Deer Hill Spring is a pool of water that bubbles up through the sand-covered ground in the middle of the woods. It is an incredible phenomenon to witness and we highly recommend if you’re in the area to check out this natural artesian well.
Popular Hikes in The Speckled Region
Blueberry Mountain via Stone House Trail
Breathtaking Blueberry Mountain is a popular place to visit especially in summer. The Stone House Trail is well marked and easy to follow, not significantly steep, and passes right by the spur path to our next recommended popular hikes in this region, Rattlesnake Pool. From the summit you have expansive views south and west.
Rattlesnake Pool
Rattlesnake pool has become much more popular in recent years thanks to social media. The emerald colored water is frigid regardless of what time of year you visit but it’s worth bracing the cold for a quick plunge into its crystal clear depths.
Albany Mountain Trail
Albany Mountain is worth a visit if nothing else to appreciate the incredible trail work that the previous adopter did to make this such a nice hike. Although views from the side path to the summit are somewhat obscured, there are spots along the rocks that you can see west towards the bigger mountains.
Little Deer Hill
Little Deer Hill is a great place to visit, especially in winter, however you’re going to want to take Leach Link Trail in winter because the dam over Cold River is not always crossable. Deer Hill is a really pretty hike and it’s not wildly difficult either. From the summit there are views south, west, and north. In winter you can see just how many deer make their home on and around this tiny mountain, hence the name.
Final Thoughts
This section of the White Mountain Guidebook is perhaps one of the few regions where you can still spend an entire day in the woods and not see another soul. Although the trails aren’t as exciting or difficult as some of the ones found in more popular regions, I loved that this section of the WMNF is more remote and less busy. In an attempt to qualitatively rank the 12 sections of the guidebook, I will give it a score out of 10 in three categories:
Variety of Hiking Trails: 6/10
Although the majority of the trails in this region are not rock scrambly or steep, there is still a decent variety of trails to explore. However, this is perhaps the least diverse region of the WMNF in terms of trail conditions.
Accessibility from South-Central NH: 3/10
This region is one of the furthest from southern New Hampshire - specifically the Manchester section. It takes at least two hours to get to any of the trails in this region and most of them are not accessible in winter because route 113 is closed where the trailheads are.
Overall Enjoyment on WMG Journey: 8/10
If it wasn’t for the long drives to trailheads, this region would be one that I revisited much more often because it is one of my favorite regions of the WMNF. Not only are the trails less busy, but they offer opportunities to strengthen my backcountry navigation. Furthermore, the trails, especially those around Blueberry Mountain and Red Rock Mountain, are really pretty. You will get views from a few of the summits but that’s not what this region is all about. It’s about exploring the forest and appreciating the foliage.