Hiker’s Guide to the Carter Region

The Carter region of the White Mountain Guidebook (WMG) encompasses a massive section of forest. With the Appalachian Trail running along the backbone of the Carter-Moriah and Wildcat ridges, and the Wild River Wilderness kissing said backbone and then descending to the treacherous Wild River, this region is a hiker’s dream. Whether you’re looking for a challenging hike or a wilderness experience, this region has something for you. The Appalachian Trail and the Baldfaces sandwich the Wild River Wilderness like two pieces of bread and between them the delicious center oozes with a river and bordering wilderness that refuses to be tamed.  

The Carter region is home to six of the forty-eight 4000’ers but those peaks are certainly not the crown jewels of this region. According to the White Mountain Guidebook, 31st edition, this section of the White mountains is, “bounded on the west by NH 16, on the north by US 2, and on the east and south by NH/ME 113…the Wild River Wilderness was established in 2006 and includes 23,700 acres” (pg. 445).

In total, it took us twenty-four individual days of hiking to complete the 187.7 miles of trail in this section. Our total elevation gain and total miles to complete this section of the guidebook were: 201.32 miles and 77,412’ of climbing. Originally we had planned out twenty-two days of hiking and one overnight for this region and with the exception of two hikes, we completed the region as planned. However, it was incredibly difficult to accomplish this feat and required a lot of grit to get through some of these days. The Wild River has wreaked havoc on some of the trails that run alongside their banks and what may appear like an easy walk in the woods based on the map is anything but.

Easiest/Hardest Days 

When we were completing this region (as with any of the regions of the guidebook) our goal was to get as much done as possible in a set amount of time. Because of this, many of my routes were not ones we would have done as day hikes had we not been working on a timed attempt.

Hands down the hardest day we had on trail completing the Carter region was when we set out to do a twenty-three mile loop in one day instead of two. It was late fall and with a limited amount of sunlight we fully intended on completing this loop as an overnight originally but at the last minute decided to try and crank it out in one day. What thwarted our attempt and led to us bailing off the Carter-Moriah Trail down Stony Brook Trail instead of completing the loop descending Moriah Brook Trail was the significant difficulty we had with crossing the Wild River at the start of the day. After a wildly wet summer, the crossing was difficult to navigate and without a doubt we were going to have to navigate it in the dark if we attempted to complete this loop, a very dangerous idea. Ultimately, we ended up descending Stony Brook Trail, then coming back the next day to finish the section completing Moriah Brook Trail as an out-and-back. 

The easiest day on trail in this region was the day that we did the trails on the Doublehead mountains. We completed this small section of trails in one day in winter and although the weather was certainly less than ideal, and we had to break trail all day, it was the easiest day we had in this region of The Whites.

Navigation/Trail Conditions  

In this region, a large portion of the trails are maintained by the White Mountain National Forest, Nature Conservancy, and the Appalachian Mountain Club. Most of the trails in this region are in good condition, and are cleared of blowdowns on a seasonal basis, however the trails located within the Wild River Wilderness are not as well maintained. Specifically, the Highwater Trail is in rough shape. Even with all of the hard work by the trail adopters and the forest service, this trail has been washed out several times. While there are reroutes at some of the washouts, a few are clearly just footpaths that have been worn into the side of the hill by hikers and not officially cut trails. The East Branch Trail is another trail that is not used often and is difficult to follow because of the lack of traffic and almost no trail markers. In autumn, the fallen leaves made this trail even harder to follow. The Wild River Trail is wet and slow going past the Eagle Link Trail heading towards East Branch Trail, and speaking of Eagle Link, this trail is gaining popularity but is still not heavily trafficked and very overgrown in spots, during the summer, especially.   

Some of the nicest trails in this region include those on and around Blackcap Mountain, the trail to the summit of Kearsarge North (Mount Kearsarge North Trail) and the trails up and around the Baldface and Meader region. 

Places of Note 

A few of our favorite places within the White Mountain National Forest are located in the Carter region. Whether you’re looking for a long walk in the woods or views from a bald summit, this region has it. The Baldface Circle Trail, leading over the summits of two 3,000+’ peaks, stand out as some of the most stunning mountains in New Hampshire below 4000’. For those looking for the best trail for fall colors, Eagle Link is hands down the most stunning trail we’ve ever hiked in during foliage season. Rainbow Trail runs from the summit of Carter Dome into the Wild River Wilderness and has unique views north towards the Carter-Moriah Range before you plummet into one of the most beautiful birch glades we’ve ever seen. If you’re looking for a shorter hike or gentle stroll along some very well maintained trails, we recommend the Bald Cap region, and if you’re looking to get in some major elevation, you can take on the Wildcat Ridge or Carter-Moriah Trail (or both at the same time).

Hidden Gems in the Carter Region  

• Eagle Link Trail

• This trail leads to the Meader Ridge Trail from the Wild River Wilderness and we’ve hiked it twice now, once in summer and once in fall. Both times it was breathtaking despite being somewhat frustrating at times. Eagle Link exits the wilderness on top of a beautiful bald known as Eagle Crag. What makes this trail so beautiful is the foliage. While Hobblebush is a cumbersome and invasive species, the enemy of the trail maintainer, it is one of the most beautiful plants in fall and Eagle Link is covered in this vegetation.  

• Basin Trail from Wild River Campground

• The Basin Trail traverses from the Wild River Campground to the Basin Campground and although both portions of the trail are pretty, the two mile stretch that parallels Blue Brook is one of our favorite hidden gems in The Whites. This two mile stretch of trail gradually gains a few hundred feet of elevation and runs right next to multiple waterfalls, water slides, and natural pools. It is the perfect spot to take a swim in summer if you’re willing to walk for it. What we loved most about this area was that it was tucked away and not heavily trafficked. A true hidden gem in the White Mountains.   

• Rainbow Trail

• The Rainbow Trail runs into one of the most stunning birch glades we’ve laid eyes on. Located entirely in the Wild River Wilderness the Rainbow Trail is remote enough of a trail to be worth the title of a hidden gem despite becoming a bit more popular. This trail can be accessed from the Bog Brook Trail, or the Wildcat River Trail. We recommend the Bog Brook Trail for a more direct route despite being marshy and harder to follow in a few spots. Rainbow Trail can be hiked as part of a loop hike, up Wildcat River Trail to the Carter-Moriah Trail, and then descending Rainbow Trail to Bog Brook Trail.   

• Slippery Brook Trail

• Slippery Brook Trail from Slippery Brook Road to the summit of South Baldface is one of the most underrated trails in the White Mountains. It gradually ascends through soft and hardwood forests to the junction where Eastman Mountain spur path leads to the right and Baldface Knob Trail continues straight .7 miles to the Baldface Circle Trail which runs over the summits of South and North Baldface. Reaching the summit of either of these two peaks is not necessary to enjoy the Slippery Brook Trail, though. In fall, this four mile stretch of trail runs through bright golden foliage and rivals Eagle Link for one of the most beautiful trails in this region for leaf peeping. 

• Mountain Pond Loop Trail

• This 2.4 mile loop is a beautiful trail that comes with a bonus, the option of staying overnight at a three-sided shelter overnight. The Mountain Pond Loop Trail is both well-traveled, with an easy to navigate footpath, and rough and rugged depending on which part of the loop you’re on. The southern section of the loop is the rougher part of the loop because it is a bit marshier and has more rocks and roots. The portion of the Mountain Pond Loop Trail leading to the shelter is much easier so if all you are looking for is someplace to spend the night, simply follow the left branch of this loop from the junction to the shelter. 

Popular Hikes in The Carter Region

• The Carter-Moriah Trail Traverse

• This difficult traverse runs from Carter Notch over the summit of four of the NH 4000’ers and skirts the summit of four additional peaks. To reach the start of the Carter-Moriah Trail in the notch, we recommend taking Nineteen Mile Brook Trail and if you’re looking for less elevation gain we recommend completing this traverse from Carter Notch to the Carter-Moriah Trailhead on Bangor Street (saving over 1,000’ of climbing). The Appalachian Trail is the Carter-Moriah Trail so it receives a lot of traffic especially during thru-hiking season.

• Baldface Circle Trail

•  The Baldface Circle Trail brings you over the summit of two stunning peaks under 4000’. The Baldfaces are two almost treeless peaks that are difficult to ascend due to the short, steep trails leading to the pair of summits. Whether you’re hiking them in summer or fall, these peaks will not disappoint when it comes to the views department. We recommend ascending this loop from Bicknell Ridge Trail and descending via the Baldface Circle Trail due to the difficult rock scrambles prior to the North Baldface summit. 

• Glen Ellis Falls

• Although this is a very short walk from the parking lot on route 16, the trail has been recently redone and is absolutely gorgeous. The craftsmanship demonstrated in creating the stone footpath and the steps leading down to the base of the falls were a labor of love and we highly recommend stopping to check out this waterfall if you’re in the Pinkham Notch area. Additionally, Glen Ellis Falls has been a tourist attraction since the 1850s and is one of the few trails that are mentioned in the first White Mountain guidebook published in 1858, giving it historical significance. 

• Mount Kearsarge North Trail

• This difficult trail shouldn’t be underestimated. Although Kearsarge North is not a 4000’er, the ascent to the summit via Mount Kearsarge North Trail is relentless. The hard work to reach the summit is worth it, though, especially if you’re a fan of historic fire towers. Situated on the summit is one of the most beautiful fire towers we’ve seen and you can even spend the night in it if you choose (first come, first served). There is a viewing platform running along all four sides of the fire tower and while many of the fire towers in the White Mountains are gone now, this tower is one of the few that remains and is in wonderful shape.

• Carter Notch Hut via Nineteen Mile Brook Trail

• This popular hike is the first portion of the Carter-Moriah Traverse we referenced as our first popular hike recommendation. Perhaps you’re not interested in climbing a 4000’er but still want a beautiful hike and a destination to take a break at. This out-and-back hike runs along Nineteen Mile Brook to Carter Notch where the Carter Notch hut is located. This hut is open year-round (caretaker only in winter) and is nestled right near the Appalachian Trail. From the hut there are a handful of views towards Wildcat A and Carter Dome. Along Nineteen Mile Brook Trail there are many cascades, waterfalls, and natural pools.  

Final Thoughts 

The Carter region of the White Mountains is one of our favorite places to visit. It truly is a wilderness-lover’s playground and although a few of the trails are in rough shape, the vast majority of them are not. The Wild River Wilderness is one of the few places in The Whites that you can go and not expect to see other people for the majority of the day. Several of the trails are rarely used and many of the trails run along historic logging railroads. The trails along Evans Notch Road (route 113) are well maintained and range in difficulty from moderate to strenuous. Finally, some of the best places to hike in winter are the trails on and around the Carter-Moriah Trail. Every one of the trails running off of route 16 to the Carter-Moriah Trail are heavily used in winter and some of our favorite memories of winter hiking come from this region. In an attempt to quantitatively rank the 12 sections of the guidebook, we will give it a score out of 10 in three categories: 

Variety of Hiking Trails: 9/10 

This region of the White Mountains has something for everyone with one exception, those looking for long above treeline hikes. There are some scrambles along the Wildcat Ridge Trail and within Carter Notch, however compared to the Mahoosucs and Presidentials (which both border the Carter region) the Carters don’t have much in the way of rock scrambles if that’s your thing.  

Accessibility from South-Central NH: 6/10 

This region is all almost two hours or more one-way from south-central New Hampshire. The trails off route 16 are the closest to south-central New Hampshire are some of the most heavily trafficked ones in the region, however they are some of the closest time-wise. The trails located in Evans Notch are further from south-central NH but are more exciting to explore (in our opinion).  

Overall Enjoyment on WMG Journey: 9/10  

This region, though farther from south-central NH than we’d like, is one of our favorite places to go hiking. For those who like spending a lot of time in the woods rather than along ridgelines, this region is going to be right up your alley. If this region were closer to south-central NH, we’d rank it a 10/10.